As a result, Fourchaume can be named just that, or more precisely identified by the addition of Côte de Fontenay, L’Homme Mort, Vaulorent or Vaupulent. To add to the confusion, a Chablis Premier Cru can be named as the ‘main’ climat, eg Fourchaume, or by using both the main and the extra climat designation. Where things get more complex is the fact that in total there are 40 climats, comprising some sites that are reasonably well known (Fôrets, Les Lys), as well as others that are virtually unheard of (or never seen) such as Côte de Prés Girots or Vaux Ragons.
There are 17 designated main premier cru climats (a specific, defined parcel of vines), including all those mentioned above. Most wine lovers are aware of some key sites – Fourchaume, Montée de Tonnerre, Montmains, Vaillons – but how many have either tasted, or know the stylistic differences between Beauroy, Côte de Léchet, Les Fourneaux or Vau de Vey? Chablis Premier Cru Fine detail
One can talk about premier cru as an important quality designation in isolation, or focus on the subtleties between vineyards. In his book Inside Burgundy, Jasper Morris MW observes that with Chablis Premier Cru things get complicated. When one looks into the detail of Chablis Premier Cru, the picture becomes even more complex.
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Kimmeridgian soil is characterised by the presence of countless fossilised oyster shells (exogyra virgula) – a key driver of wine style. We always speak about terroir as the soil, exposition and the hand of the winemaker but, in fact, it is mostly a question of soil.’ Chablis is renowned for its unique soil (and underlying rock structure) dominated by marly limestone dating back to the Upper Jurassic period about 150 million years ago. Vincent Dampt of Domaine Daniel Dampt says: ‘With the premiers crus, there are strong differences in taste, even if you vinify them in the same way. In the overall context of Chablis with, according to BIVB, about 5,600ha under vine in 2017 (including Petit Chablis), the 779ha of premier cru may seem somewhat inconsequential, but these wines are considered by many as the truest expression of this famous wine region. The steely acidity, nervy, fresh, energetic style of Chardonnay has always appealed, leading me to write my Master of Wine dissertation on the premiers crus. Here, with a laser-like focus on a single grape variety, minimal (or no) use of oak and a marginal, cool climate, the vignerons of Chablis craft the most scintillating and precise examples of vineyard expression.Ĭhablis has always been one of my main loves.
I would argue that the premier cru climats of Chablis elevate terroir to its most precise expression. The region has always been the epitome for exemplifying the importance of terroir, with a long historical tradition melding with grapes, soils, vineyard exposition and climate. It came as no surprise to wine enthusiasts around the world when the climats of Burgundy were recognised by the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2015.
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